Just for the fun of it!!
The
reason we dive, is because it is just so fun! Whether you are photographer,
technical diver, sightseer or any other type of diver, we dive not because somebody
is compelling us; but because we love to dive! If you are like me, there is an
inexplicable internal compulsion to dive. So here is a little info on one
of my wife’s and my favorite spots:
Bonaire
Bonaire
is part of the Netherland Lesser Antilles, which used to include Aruba and
Curacao. Each island now has its own political relationship to The Netherlands.
Bonaire is a Special Municipality. (I am not sure that means by the way!) The
small desert island is located about 50 miles off of the east cost of
Venezuela. The climate is wonderfully dry and warm. And the inhabitants are
just as warm and welcoming. The beaches generally are covered with broken up coral
and not really ideal for sand castle engineers. But the water, animals and
reefs are ideal for diving!
(Can you see the octopus?)
The first time Coleen and I dove Bonaire we found
the amount of fish on unbelievable! I mean, our comments were: “if we try to
tell anyone how many fish there are, they won’t believe us!” And it is still
true today. The shear amount and variety is nearly overwhelming. On our very
first trip Coleen made an underwater friend of a rather large puffer. This fish
followed her all dive long, just hanging out staying within about 10-20 feet of
her. Two days later we decided to dive the same spot and sure enough, her
friend was back at her side. … Well, I suppose it was the same fish!
Coleen and the Puffer |
Finding the dive sits is so easy and fun.
There is little reason to pay for a boat (see
below). Most dive packages come with a truck or SUV equipped with lay down tank
racks. Load up and head down the coastal road (it is about the only road). Look
for rocks painted yellow alongside the road. Each site will have such a rock.
You will find the name of the site painted on the rock.
Hilma Hooker |
Invisibles |
Oil Slick |
Gear up and go. Expect an easy beach or dock
entry with a 25-50 yard surface swim to a buoy. The buoys are typically in
approximately 30-40 feet of water and on the edge of the reef. A perfect
starting spot and an easily found exit point. If you remember how to use your
compass, take a heading from the entry and return on its’ reciprocal, and
voila, you are back where you started!
It is a good idea to spend a few dollars and buy
a dive site book for Bonaire. Lonely Planet publishes the best one I have seen
for Bonaire. Some of the dives are rather challenging and few are downright
dangerous. The current on the end of the island will take you to Venezuela if
you miss the exit! Well, that’s what I
have been told. 95% of the dive spots do not have any appreciable current
and are easy to dive.
There is a great wreck, the Hilma Hooker. It was
an inter island freighter last used for the drug trade. The 145 foot ship was
abandoned in port after the authorities showed up. The ship started to take on
water while docked. So it was in the process of being towed when it went to
Davy Jones’ locker in 100 feet of clear water, landing perfectly in the sand
between the double reef systems. This means it was NOT cleared of entrapments
and can be nasty on the inside. If you are not wreck certified, admire all the
wonderful sponges and fish on the outside. But stay out of it! Even if
you are wreck certified, be very careful. I recommend you find a dive
instructor to make your first penetrations with. Ebby Jules at Belmar is an
excellent choice. With a max depth of 100 feet and a lot of good diving at 85
feet, this can be a long, fun dive. We did a deco on it last November and just
had a blast.
The East side of the island has some of the most
beautiful and rugged shore line you may ever see. No beach entries over there.
You can get a ride on an inflatable boat and see the underwater world as well.
Frankly, it is very nice diving, but I do not think it is worth the $150 when
compared to the rest of the island.
Hilma's Port Side |
There is small islet just opposite of the main
city of Kralendijk (pronounced “crawl-in-dike”). The islet is Kilen Bonaire. It
is a 5 min boat trip and has some nice spots. You are likely to see the
fabulous and entertaining sea horse on the trip. Again, I am not too sure it is
worth the money.
(This is all I have seen Sea Horses do by the way)
The reason I am not real big on the two boat
trips is simply because the rest of the diving in Bonaire is just a fabulous
and does not eat up your money.
(Not a recommended practice)
Most safety stops can be done on the reef or in
the sandy bottoms between the reef and shore. The water is very warm and life
is abundant. I have been known to breath my tanks down rather low (not
recommended) while chasing photos of the creatures in the shallows. I also made
a new best friend in the shallows: Miss Fire Coral. Not particularly pretty and
has a rather nasty disposition. … But there was a baby spotted eel making a
home inside. I just had to get the picture. Oops. A little closer than I
thought! … And the picture? I never did get it!
(Can you identify the fire coral? I CAN!)
Speaking of which, it is against the law to touch
the reef or wear gloves or take game. I have never seen an underwater police
officer. But following the laws and keeping a healthy distance will not only
prevent you from damaging the reef but will also keep you from inadvertently
bumping onto my new best friend!
Buddy dive centers which owns; Buddy Dive, Belmar
Apartments (our personal favorite- Belmar- Managed by our good friend Chrissie Wooton) and the Caribbean
Club Bonair, has a drive thru tank refill center. Just drive up, toss your
empties and grab some full tanks and off you are. A note here, if you are
diving Nitrox, be sure to take the time to analyze the gas. I was there
November 2012 when Buddy was apparently training a new mixer. The mixes were
way off. This was the one and only time, and it
was only on one day, I have seen this problem. None the less: Check! We were
getting 4 to 4 ½ hours underwater in four dives each day with bottoms of 75 to
100 feet on every dive. Your Nitrox mix is critical. If you are not currently
diving Nitrox, do it! You can do it at Belmar or prior to your trip. But do it!
Eating:
This is my second favorite thing to do on a dive
trip. There are several GREAT restaurants in Kralendijk. Dutch, Argentine,
Sushi, Fish, Brazilian, NY Style Pizza and even a KFC! (Wow, if you go all the way to Bonaire
and eat at the KFC. Please don’t tell me. Just slap yourself in the head for
me.) I grew up on the beaches of Southern California and love fresh sea food. The island’s best fresh fish is not found in
Finney’s Fresh Fish Diner, but in “It rains Fish”. You may need to make
reservations weeks prior to you visit, to be sure you can eat there.
Some of the Best NY Pizza, Ever! |