Bon Bini, Bonaire!

Just for the fun of it!!

The reason we dive, is because it is just so fun! Whether you are photographer, technical diver, sightseer or any other type of diver, we dive not because somebody is compelling us; but because we love to dive! If you are like me, there is an inexplicable internal compulsion to dive. So here is a little info on one of my wife’s and my favorite spots: 

Bonaire

Bonaire is part of the Netherland Lesser Antilles, which used to include Aruba and Curacao. Each island now has its own political relationship to The Netherlands. Bonaire is a Special Municipality. (I am not sure that means by the way!) The small desert island is located about 50 miles off of the east cost of Venezuela. The climate is wonderfully dry and warm. And the inhabitants are just as warm and welcoming. The beaches generally are covered with broken up coral and not really ideal for sand castle engineers. But the water, animals and reefs are ideal for diving!

(Can you see the octopus?)

The first time Coleen and I dove Bonaire we found the amount of fish on unbelievable! I mean, our comments were: “if we try to tell anyone how many fish there are, they won’t believe us!” And it is still true today. The shear amount and variety is nearly overwhelming. On our very first trip Coleen made an underwater friend of a rather large puffer. This fish followed her all dive long, just hanging out staying within about 10-20 feet of her. Two days later we decided to dive the same spot and sure enough, her friend was back at her side. … Well, I suppose it was the same fish!

Coleen and the Puffer

Finding the dive sits is so easy and fun.

There is little reason to pay for a boat (see below). Most dive packages come with a truck or SUV equipped with lay down tank racks. Load up and head down the coastal road (it is about the only road). Look for rocks painted yellow alongside the road. Each site will have such a rock. You will find the name of the site painted on the rock.

Hilma Hooker

Invisibles

Oil Slick

 Gear up and go. Expect an easy beach or dock entry with a 25-50 yard surface swim to a buoy. The buoys are typically in approximately 30-40 feet of water and on the edge of the reef. A perfect starting spot and an easily found exit point. If you remember how to use your compass, take a heading from the entry and return on its’ reciprocal, and voila, you are back where you started!

It is a good idea to spend a few dollars and buy a dive site book for Bonaire. Lonely Planet publishes the best one I have seen for Bonaire. Some of the dives are rather challenging and few are downright dangerous. The current on the end of the island will take you to Venezuela if you miss the exit! Well, that’s what I have been told. 95% of the dive spots do not have any appreciable current and are easy to dive.

There is a great wreck, the Hilma Hooker. It was an inter island freighter last used for the drug trade. The 145 foot ship was abandoned in port after the authorities showed up. The ship started to take on water while docked. So it was in the process of being towed when it went to Davy Jones’ locker in 100 feet of clear water, landing perfectly in the sand between the double reef systems. This means it was NOT cleared of entrapments and can be nasty on the inside. If you are not wreck certified, admire all the wonderful sponges and fish on the outside. But stay out of it! Even if you are wreck certified, be very careful. I recommend you find a dive instructor to make your first penetrations with. Ebby Jules at Belmar is an excellent choice. With a max depth of 100 feet and a lot of good diving at 85 feet, this can be a long, fun dive. We did a deco on it last November and just had a blast.

Hilma's Port Side

The East side of the island has some of the most beautiful and rugged shore line you may ever see. No beach entries over there. You can get a ride on an inflatable boat and see the underwater world as well. Frankly, it is very nice diving, but I do not think it is worth the $150 when compared to the rest of the island.

East Coast

There is small islet just opposite of the main city of Kralendijk (pronounced “crawl-in-dike”). The islet is Kilen Bonaire. It is a 5 min boat trip and has some nice spots. You are likely to see the fabulous and entertaining sea horse on the trip. Again, I am not too sure it is worth the money.

(This is all I have seen Sea Horses do by the way)

The reason I am not real big on the two boat trips is simply because the rest of the diving in Bonaire is just a fabulous and does not eat up your money.

(Not a recommended practice)

Most safety stops can be done on the reef or in the sandy bottoms between the reef and shore. The water is very warm and life is abundant. I have been known to breath my tanks down rather low (not recommended) while chasing photos of the creatures in the shallows. I also made a new best friend in the shallows: Miss Fire Coral. Not particularly pretty and has a rather nasty disposition. … But there was a baby spotted eel making a home inside. I just had to get the picture. Oops. A little closer than I thought! … And the picture? I never did get it!

(Can you identify the fire coral? I CAN!)

Speaking of which, it is against the law to touch the reef or wear gloves or take game. I have never seen an underwater police officer. But following the laws and keeping a healthy distance will not only prevent you from damaging the reef but will also keep you from inadvertently bumping onto my new best friend!

Buddy dive centers which owns; Buddy Dive, Belmar Apartments (our personal favorite- Belmar- Managed by our good friend Chrissie Wooton) and the Caribbean Club Bonair, has a drive thru tank refill center. Just drive up, toss your empties and grab some full tanks and off you are. A note here, if you are diving Nitrox, be sure to take the time to analyze the gas. I was there November 2012 when Buddy was apparently training a new mixer. The mixes were way off.  This was the one and only time, and it was only on one day, I have seen this problem. None the less: Check! We were getting 4 to 4 ½ hours underwater in four dives each day with bottoms of 75 to 100 feet on every dive. Your Nitrox mix is critical. If you are not currently diving Nitrox, do it! You can do it at Belmar or prior to your trip. But do it!

Eating:

Some of the Best NY Pizza, Ever!

This is my second favorite thing to do on a dive trip. There are several GREAT restaurants in Kralendijk. Dutch, Argentine, Sushi, Fish, Brazilian, NY Style Pizza and even a KFC! (Wow, if you go all the way to Bonaire and eat at the KFC. Please don’t tell me. Just slap yourself in the head for me.) I grew up on the beaches of Southern California and love fresh sea food. The island’s best fresh fish is not found in Finney’s Fresh Fish Diner, but in “It rains Fish”. You may need to make reservations weeks prior to you visit, to be sure you can eat there. 

So all in all Bonaire is wonderful place to dive and relax! I can't wait to go back! May be we will see each other there!

Bon Bini

Relaxing at Oil Slick

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